Arrival of Winter: Escape to Moe’s Valley

Well here in Montana and Wyoming I think it is fair to say rock climbing season is over for the 2010 season. Over a foot of snow is covering my cabin and the creek running nearby is still and quiet… the water is more a sludge than it is liquid. My driveway resembles a bobsled course… an icy path contained by two sloped walls. The wood burning stove rages day and night to keep my skinny little butt warm.

Unlike many climbers here in the mountain west, I was lucky enough to escape the snow and score some dry, crisp stone over the Thanksgiving holiday. Let me tell you what, I am very thankful for the time I spent in Moe’s Valley. What a fantastic place; aesthetic climbs, beautiful setting, wide range of difficulties, and delicious Mexican food within 15 minutes of the boulders. This place is a little piece of climber’s heaven.

The first thing a climber notices from the parking lot is the Sentinel Boulder. It looms above a dry creek bed, and even from a distance it dominates the landscape. With grades ranging from V2 to V12 this boulder is one of the best entrance boulders I’ve been to anywhere. Warm-up and give the classic Huntsman Graffiti V5 a try. It does not resemble the Moe’s style, but if you can send this crimpy climb you will have a good chance at sending any of the V6’s in the main valley.

Like all climbing destinations that are popular Moe’s shows signs of overuse. Garbage, from climbers and non-climbers is scattered about the area. Erosion from crash pad placement is sorely obvious at some of the boulders. I can personally attest to bringing home pounds of red desert dirt in my clothing, crash pad, and dog.

Tick marks and caked chalk is left behind by irresponsible climbing parties. A crew we encountered from L.A. was incredibly bad at this. These nuisances are by no means exclusive to Moe’s Valley, they are representative of the climbing community as a whole. Since I was only a visitor to this area all I can say is bring a garbage bag, brush, and a proactive attitude. As far as erosion… Moe’s would be an excellent place for the construction of erosion barriers. Just an idea.

I was most impressed by the Sentinel, Device Ignitor, IsRail, Bazooka Tooth, and Monkey Boy Boulders, but I did not get to see the Upper Jones Valley, Gription, or Escape Artist. Simply there were too many beautiful lines to choose from.

The biggest disappointment of the trip was finding out the “classic” Show of Hands V10 has two heavily glued holds. Not to make a judgment on the first ascent or the person who chose to glue these holds, but I strongly believe gluing holds is an unacceptable practice. I understand that in certain instances gluing a hold may preserve a “classic” long enough that many more climbers can experience it. But take a step back and look at rock from a geological perspective. Rock is eroding and changing all the time… we CAN NOT and SHOULD NOT try to control Mother Nature. Who knows what will be left behind when a hold breaks. Maybe a turdy V4 or possibly the next V16. My point is… no single climber owns these rocks and to destroy or preserve a climb by using glue only leaves behind a scar that will outlast the hold and the climber who applied it. Regardless of the glue, I’m looking forward to return and give this beautiful climb some goes. I would like to hear the whole story behind the glue… I’m always fascinated by different philosophies.

On a positive note, the St. George climbing community was warm and welcoming. Our Wyoming crew was lucky enough to climb with some locals. Notably a strong younger character named Hector, a very nice Mormon gentleman who was learning to climb, and a hard working father named John who is likely the most “real” climber I have ever met in my life. We also encountered visiting groups from Durango and Provo which we enjoyed many a great sends with. The highlight of the trip was being invited to share Thanksgiving dinner with local climber Arturo Calvo’s family. We ate like kings and then sipped Negra Modela fireside listening to Arturo describe routes and boulder problems in broken English. I don’t think I’ve ever been hungrier before Thanksgiving dinner or more stuffed and satisfied afterwards.

Thanks to all who made our trip memorable… specifically Cody expatriates John and Shallena Taylor, and Aaron Danforth. Also a big shout out to Shaun… the man who provided the tunnel we lived in. If you’re in St. George and Shaun’s band Erik the Red is playing go see them!! They will rock your socks off and give you a perspective of St. George culture that you can’t get anywhere else in town. Finally do not miss the opportunity to munch some of the dankest Mexican food you can find anywhere. Go see “Boss Man” at Roberto’s Taco Shop located on the East end of St. George Blvrd. Trust me you WON’T be disappointed.

The bottom line is that Moe’s Valley is a fantastic bouldering area. Make it there before the world comes to an end!! I know I will be back ASAP, but next time I’m setting aside a couple days to go trad climbing with Arturo. Keep your eyes open cause in a few weeks we will be releasing our footage from this trip in the film “Apocalypse Meow: Moderately Moe’s”. Until then stay warm, and ski some “Pooder”.

If you give a crap… this is what I sent while I was in Moe’s.

On sight

Device Ignitor Center V5

One-Eyed Willy V3

Teepee Dyno Sit V3

Flash

Device Ignitor Right V4

Underboy V4

Crash Landing V3

Second Go

IsRail V6

Underwhelmed V6

Kung-Pao V6

Ripple Boulder V5

Broken Symmetry V4

Underwhere Right V4

Rex Arête V3

One Session

Huntsman Graffiti V5 - Seemed like old school V5 (Meathook on the Antelope Boulder)

Two Sessions

Device Ignitor Left V6 – Beta Intensive!

IsRail Direct V8 – Big moves, my style